A technical dictionary of printmaking, André Béguin.
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Cleaning
A . CLEANING PRINTING ELEMENTS. Wood blocks and linocuts should only be cleaned with petroleum. Metal plates should be first washed with benzine or carbon tetrachloride (which is preferable since it is not inflamable). The cleaning can be done with a brush (with a handle) in order to pull out the traces of ink contained in the deepest lines. If the ink has dried one may also use a hot soda solution followed up by a bath of a few seconds in a highly diluted solution of nitric acid.
Abraham Bosse described the various cleaning methods used in his time. In order to clean a plate after use it was heated slightly and then a bit of oil was poured on the surface and the plate was rubbed with a clean piece of cloth. To make sure that the plate had been properly cleaned an impression was made which was called and "oil proof".
If the ink resisted an oil cleaning the next step was to boil the plate in water mixed with ashes and soda. The plate was then well rinsed and dried by heating since a wiping could have picked up a particle of ash in the water which would scratch the plate.
Printing type is cleaned with a brush and a solution of soda and potash followed up with a generous rinsing. Display faces, on the other hand, are cleaned with benzine.
B. CLEANING OF THE PRINTING ROLLERS. The rollers are first scraped with a knife to remove most of the ink resting on their surface. The next step is to clean with petroleum making sure not to flood the roller. Never use a lye solution, turpentine, or alcohol [ * rollers].
C. CLEANING OF THE LITHOGRAPHIC STONE AND LITHOGRAPHIC METAL PLATES. See lithography II, 2, and III, 2 as well as transfer.
D. CLEANING OF BLANKETS. See blanket.
E. CLEANING OF SPONGES. The sponges used in lithography for wiping plates and other uses [ * aquatint] are often spotted by the ink they may come into contact with. They may be cleaned by putting them into powdered resin and then into a solution of soda lye diluted in four times its volume of water. The wet sponge can then be rubbed on a clean wooden board until all traces of ink have disappeared. Lastly, rinse with running water.
F. CLEANING SILKSCREENS. The recycling* of a silkscreen after printing
is an economic imperative. In fact it is hardly possible to use a new screen
after each printing run. Furthermore, it is also necessary to have a way of
cleaning a screen during the printing process because the screens clog at
times especially when finely woven. Generally speaking the cleaning is done by
using the solvent appropriate to the ink used, at least if the ink has not dried.
Traces of ink or of more or less dry products can be removed with acetone when
dealing with synthetic screens. Recently other cleaning agents have become
available which facilitate recycling the screens. These cleaning agents have
replaced the usual solvents. They do a good job, are not inflamable, have no
odour, and are neither corrosive nor toxic. The cleaning is done by plunging the
screen into the liquid for ten minutes.
Cleaning during printing very often calls for cleaning the entire surface of
the screen. There are, however, products usually available in aerosol cans which
immediately unclog the screen without interupting the printing process.
These different types of cleaning are discussed in further detail in
serigraphy.
The cleaning of screens should not be confused with the removal of grease traces
in new screens.
G. CLEANING HANDS. The cleaning of hands is always a problem for the printer and especially for the printers of intaglio prints who practise palming. Generally speaking one should never begin cleaning one's hands by using a solvent as it will dilute the colour and make it penetrate yet more deeply into the skin. Use a fatty substance such as raw linseed oil (or a lanolin base cleaner) which absorbs the colour. Rub your hands well and then wipe them with paper or a clean rag. When the hands are more or less dry repeat the same procedure but add a bit of liquid detergent ( dishwashing liquid, for example) and a couple of drops of white spirit. Rub well until the mixture foams. A third and last washing with yellow soap ( Marseille soap) will finish off the job. Only at this point should one use acetone or a similar solvent to remove particularly stubborn spots. Powdered detergents and pastes with abrasives in them should not be used. See also attacking agents (hydrochloric acid).
H. CLEANING GLASS OR METAL TOOLS. To remove deposits use more or less diluted hydrochloric acid and rub the tool with a synthetic sponge.
I. CLEANING CLOTHES. Greasy spots may be removed with benzine or with trichioroethylene, carbon tetrachioride, etc. A volatile alkali can be used to neutralize spots provoked by acids.
J. CLEANING PRINTING PAPER. See * attacking agents, scouring, washing, solvents].
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